Taken from the Garden

by Ida

Taken from the Garden ·

Chickpeas, Sprouted, with Cumin and Lemon

The chickpeas had been soaking since Tuesday. Whoever set the bowl on the counter meant to get back to it sooner. Four days is a long soak in any kitchen, and this one has held its heat overnight all week, so by Thursday a third of the beans had pushed out small white tails at one end, straining against the skin. I have seen this happen before.

Sprouted chickpeas cook fast. Whatever the bean was holding in reserve for the ground is already spent on the sprout, and the hour a dry chickpea usually demands gives up in less than half that. I was not sorry about the shorter wait, not this week.

Serves 3 to 4


dried chickpeas, 1 1/2 cups, soaked (sprouted or not) water salt 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon ground cumin olive oil 1 lemon 1/4 red onion, thinly sliced parsley, a small handful, torn black pepper


Drain and rinse the chickpeas. Cover with fresh water by two inches in a pot and bring up slowly over medium heat, skimming what rises. Add the garlic. Do not salt yet.

Lower to a bare simmer. Sprouted chickpeas will be tender in thirty to forty minutes. Unsprouted ones take closer to ninety. Taste one to know for sure. It should give without any chalkiness at the center.

Salt well in the last ten minutes. Drain, keeping a little of the cooking liquid, and tip the chickpeas into a bowl while still warm. Add the cumin now, while the heat can carry it through.

Pour olive oil over the top. Squeeze the lemon in. Scatter the onion and parsley over everything. Pepper.

Let it sit until it reaches room temperature before eating. The onion softens, the oil settles, and nothing about this dish improves by being rushed.